Engine Swap Forum

going back to the first couple pages, u (fred) said that the stock 350z mounts were probably too high.  would it be possible to take out the "cushion" part of the mount and replace it with sumthing shorter?  or are there other demensions that would make it impossible to use?

I don't know why you guys are taking 9 pages to design a mount. Why don't you just drill holes in a 1/4" plate, bolt it to the oil pan. Cut the original 240sx mount extensions and weld it to that plate. Use cylinder shaped poly mounts from ebay for starter clearance.

Problem solved. Now let's move on to the steering clearance.

Use Maxima Front exhaust manifold, cut the down pipe just before the bend to the back of the FWD car. weld it in with a pipe going to the back of the RWD.

Problem solved.

Soravia:

I don't know why you guys are taking 9 pages to design a mount. Why don't you just drill holes in a 1/4" plate, bolt it to the oil pan. Cut the original 240sx mount extensions and weld it to that plate. Use cylinder shaped poly mounts from ebay for starter clearance.

You mean engine block instead of oil pan, right?

I was going to use the rubber mounts from the KA, but I decided to make them solid. It's easier and I shouldn't care about vibrations in a stripped interior car anyway.

Here's a couple of pic of mine.

That's what I'm taking about!

I'm going to try and fit in the poly mounts though.

It's nice to have a RWD VQ. Mine is FWD I got for $320 shipped.

Here are the mounts I just fabbed. I'm planning to slip in some poly urethane bushings in between.

You need to do some re-enforcing to those. I guarantee that they'll break if you don't. Otherwise they look pretty good.

Here's my finished mounts and x-member.







BTW, I paid 1,100 shipped for my vq30det. It came with an AT, starter, MAF, ECU, TCU, Wiring Harness's, and EVERYTHING attached to the engine. then I purchased my 350Z 6-speed for $300 shipped. 

Good deal. I'm actually redoing the mount. Had to move 4" on passenger side and 3" back on driver side. All because I read my own measurements wrong before welding.

I found it easiest to position the engine where it needs to be, bolt the steel plate to the engine, grind the oem KA mount until it lines out with the bolt hole in the x-memeber and sits flush with the steel plate, then tack weld the two together on the vehicle. Remove the mount and re-enforce. finished

The tricky part was, I don't have a welder where my car is at. I had to drive quite a bit to get some free welding. Tomorrow, I'm grinding it out and making perfect fitment before taking to the exhaust shop next door to where my car is.

The mounts painted black.

Driver side measurements.

Passenger side measurements.

Transmission mount before drilling.

Front and rear holes are 2.5" apart from the center.

When you bolt in the transmission with taller bolts, remember to use crush washers to not blow a hole in the engine block.

Key studs between the transmission and engine block.

Attached!

Inside the engine bay. Mounted on the crossmember but the transmission mount needs work. It got late so I'll work on it tomorrow.