Engine Swap Forum

Ok thanks, I think I'll order those then.

 

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

Here's a neat pic I found of a S car, (S13 or S14?) with a front plate type front motor mount.  This is roughly the size and shape ours would need to be.

 

Edit: found the owners gallery on drag240sx.com

http://www.drag240sx.com/plug-e-gallery-f-102.html

Maybe we could get a cad file from him

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

that looks like steve kovak's (spelling) car, he's been around the 240 world since S13s were new, he set multiple <drag> records for stock block KAs

he pulled some amazing times, 9s iirc

the reports were always a bit hazy tho - touting a stock block, but spraying heavy nitrous, and significant chassis or suspension work - i don't think i ever saw anything direct from steve, so the info is just a bit harder to swallow

I never pay attention to the words "stock block". That definition varies from "having the same architecture/ bore spacing as the stock block" to "completely stock bottom end".

Fred, can u get a more acurate estimate of the plate stock (blank) that will be required for both the front and the 'mid' plate? Effectively, the measurements of the minimum rectangle that will encompass the rails and all the involved bolts. Tape measurements are more than adequate.

Thanks.

Kurt

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Argh... guess I'll stick w/ the plan...

Ok Kurt, here's some quick measurements.  The total area the front plate will take up will be about a 31" x 9"  rectangle, rear should be similar depending on the design. 

From the bottom most front hole (of 3) to the top of the frame rails is about 3".

And, the top two tranny holes are 2 and 15/16" from the RH of one hole to the RH of the other.

 

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

Wooo!!!

CAD files to come t'row!

Kurt 

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Argh... guess I'll stick w/ the plan...

Got my calipers ordered today so if you need some accurate measurements I can get them in 10-14 business days [:0]  BTW, the 12" units are on sale today for only 34.99$, Snap On wants $54 for a little bitty 6" unit (which I came "this" close to buying).

 

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

Typical Snap On price. The only dimensions I need 'caliper' accurate is the bellhousing bolt holes. I'll model based on the 2&15/16" for now but if that's slightly off, it throws off the rest of bolt holes.

My plan of attack is to have a plain flat plate cut with the holes to the dimensions we come up with and check the holes on the mating face of the trans before we start getting fancy with the machine work.

Kurt

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Argh... guess I'll stick w/ the plan...

Good idea. If I can get the basic outline and bolt hole locations I could probably cut and drill it myself saving some machine cost for me.  Aluminum is very easy to cut on a table saw with the right blade and blade lubrication.  I did it that way for my first intake manifold.  Then have someone machine out the uneeded spaces in the middle.

 

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

Another excellent way to cut aluminum is to make a pattern, and follow it with a carbide tipped router bit

if you get a bearing bit, you can fuly radius parts, and they come in all sorts of fantastic profiles

the bits are relatively cheap and last quite a long time (feed rate has to be slower than i was typically used to)


execution on the manifold lacked a bit of forethought, but the radii came out well, and they were cut with a regular "wood" router

That's a great tip!  So, you used a regular hand held router or a router table?  That's a great way to get a nice professional edge.

 

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

it was a regular old hand held black and decker router from the mid 70s

the work piece must be firmly planted, you must be firmly planted, and you have to be very deliberate with the cut - go slow, and be extra careful to follow the propper line

i was using a ryobi 1/4" roundover carbide bit with a bearing.  it took some care to set the propper plunge depth, but once that was done, the jb was pretty easy.

cleanup is the worst part - teeny tiny aluminum glitter everywhere

all that said, it's great for someone like me, who doesn't have access to the NC machinery necessary to do that kind of cut, or for a quick prototype where the programming would be too time consuming

Nice find Allen.Its making me considering this kind of setup. The only thing that worries me now is driving thousands of miles, and vibration. I'll be doing lots of highway driving and I think it would drive me nuts. But that just depends on the setup.

Im thinking if you'd weld a plate to the frame rail side and make it look like an upside down T, and add some nice soft rubber it wouldn't be that bad. Like an old cut up tire or really thick rubber mat.

~Alex

Like I say the success of solid mounts with the 350z crowd is what makes me consider it for my street car, if I doubted it I wouldn't pursue it either however, you could easily fabricate a soft mounting solution like you said with a little thought.  There's some pics of a neat product being used to make motor mounts here:

 

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=162154

 

I may experiment with that stuff when we get that far along.

 

Kurt, any luck with the CAD layouts yet (I'm getting anxious to do some fabrication )?

 

Fred

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Instrument Cluster and Speedometer Repair

Sorry about the absence. Hectic past 2 weeks. I'll get on it asap.

Kurt

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Argh... guess I'll stick w/ the plan...